Riding in the Alpujarras

 
Velez de Benaudalla gateway to the Alpujarra

Velez de Benaudalla gateway to the Alpujarra

 

The Alpujarras are defined as a historical and natural region, covering parts of both the province of Granada and Almería and are located only a short distance - but yet worlds away - from the very touristic Costa de Sol. 

 
a typical scene from Las Alpujarras
 

To those in the know, the Alpujarras are home to some of Spain’s best, yet least known riding – on and off-road, making it the perfect location for a peaceful cycling holiday or training camp.

 
The climb to Haza del Lino with the Alpujarras and the Sierra in the background.

The climb to Haza del Lino with the Alpujarras and the Sierra in the background.

 

Nestled on the foothills of the vast Sierra Nevada mountains, the southern facing slopes of the Alpujarras are blessed with near year-round sunshine and pleasant temperatures, with only with highest peaks facing snowfall. The region remains largely untouched and un-discovered by mass of tourism and western culture that has all but taken over the nearby Costa del Sol.

 
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Of course, the relative anonymity of the region has its upsides, with a wide network of beautifully smooth roads and winding climbs, practically devoid of traffic, linking the many untouched, traditional white villages typical of the area. It often strikes me how many of the towns and villages seem untouched by the passing of time.

 
Trevelez - famed for it’s Jamon and being the highest village in Spain.

Trevelez - famed for it’s Jamon and being the highest village in Spain.

 

With no gaudy chain-stores or big brand shops to take away from the picture-perfect streets, there is a real sense that this is real, un-filtered rural Andalucia. The history behind these towns make for fascinating reading – they were the last stronghold of the Moors of Spain, providing an escape for those fleeing Granada after during the Reconquista by Catholic Royals in 1492. Many of the buildings have retained the original, traditional ‘Berber’ architecture and are well worth exploring in your free time.

 
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The Alpujarras and associated villages with their warm climate and sunshine are perfectly suited to the growth of olives and especially almonds trees that flower in early spring turning the landscape pink when they are in full bloom. The region is also home to a number of high altitude vineyards, producing some fantastic wines.

 
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The most well known of the area’s produce however, would have to be the Jámon, cured in the mountain village of Trevélez. Lying at an elevation of 1476m, the crisp mountain air makes it ideal for drying the naturally cured ham. Many of the town’s bars and cafes have large legs of Jámon hanging from the roof, making for a unique experience!

 
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Whether you’re after a cycling holiday or a relaxing sight-seeing trip with family, the Alpujarras are the perfect location. The scenery is unrivalled, while the many ‘white villages’ are just begging to be explored. The history and culture of the area is rich and fascinating, making it ideal for anyone looking for something different. While the accent can be hard to understand, the people are genuinely friendly and welcoming. As I fumble around in my broken, basic Spanish, the majority of the locals are warm and happy to help, even if many don’t speak any English.

 
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For anyone looking for something different from their next cycling holiday they really should consider the Alpujarra as their base. The roads and trails are unrivaled, the lack of traffic and year-round sunshine setting the area apart from the other more traditional cycling ‘meccas’ of Mallorca or Girona. For those in search of a real, traditional Spanish cultural experience, look no further than the Alpujarra! I can almost guarantee that you will not leave disappointed!

 
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Words: Cian May - Photos: Szymon Kotowski